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The art of making good compost seems to be a bit of a black art.
Some people appear to have the knack, others don't. In our experience,
compost doesn't always turn out like that shown on TV gardening programmes!
Below are some suggestions, hints and tips that should help but its likely that you'll have to experiment
and find out the best methods to suit you. If the compost is not perfectly as you would like don't despair, dig it in as early as possible and the end results will probably be
very rewarding.
What's Good to Compost
- Basically, all organic waste from your garden and kitchen.
- All fruit, vegetables and waste from these, flowers and leaves, tea
and tea bags, coffee grounds, egg shells (preferably crushed).
- Weeds, grass, soft cuttings and prunings.
- Shredded twigs, prunings and cuttings.
- Waste paper including tissues, kitchen towels, newspaper, printer paper,
corrugated paper/card and cardboard but not too much; it should all be
torn up or crumpled and well mixed in with the rest of the compost.
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What's Bad to Compost
- Meat, fish, dairy produce, fat, egg, bread, cake, biscuits, pastry and
things containing these; they rot and attract vermin.
- Nearly all cooked food, for the same reason.
- We think you shouldn't compost tomato plants and tops of potato plants; we understand that they can transmit disease
(the actual tomatoes and potatoes are fine).
- Cat and dog faeces, because it could carry/transmit disease.
- Plastics, shiny paper and card.
- Coarse cuttings, prunings, stalks and twigs, as unless they are shredded
they'll take too long to decompose.
- Big roots and roots of dandelions, ground elder, mares tail, couch grass,
bindweed etc as these will re-grow.
- Diseased plants or leaves, like those with black spot, mildew, rust
or other visible diseases.
- Grass cuttings, moss or other garden waste recently treated with chemicals;
you should follow instructions on the packet/tin etc regarding composting
following treatment.
- Soil. Small quantities are acceptable, and may be beneficial if well distributed, but you should shake or knock excess
soil off plant roots before composting them.
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Tips to Improve your Compost
- You should compost things with a range of textures; you need a mix of
soft waste material as well as coarser rougher stuff. This helps to aerate
the compost.
- One way to aid this is to compost waste paper/card and cardboard but
not too much; it should all be torn up or crumpled and mixed in with the
rest of the compost. The Composting Tip Sheet from CAT (see our site)
gives more details, emphasising the benefits of composting paper and card,
stating that you should recycle what paper and card you can and compost
all the rest that's suitable.
- Mixing and turning the compost also helps it decompose faster.
- Organic waste will turn into compost faster if it's in small pieces.
A compost shredder is useful to chop up larger and coarser material so
that it's suitable to put in the composter.
- The above tips all help to introduce and maintain oxygen into the compost;
this helps the organic matter to decompose faster.
- Grass cuttings can be composted but you should not put thick layers
in the compost bin without mixing other, coarser materials in with the
grass to get oxygen into the mixture. Grass cuttings in large quantities
will compact and form a thatch, restricting air flow and slowing down
decomposition of the grass as well as other waste and will eventually
end up as a slimy, smelly mass.
- The compost in the container should be moist, but not too wet. If it's
too dry, you can just water it. If it's too wet and soggy, maybe liquid
cannot drain away from the bottom; you could try standing your compost
container on paving slabs with a slight slope and small gaps between;
this will also make it easier to to remove your compost from the bottom.
It can be helpful to pack small pieces of tile or slate under the legs
to get the container upright and also delay the onset of wet-rot if they
are wooden.
- Organic waste turns into compost faster if it's warm. Positioning your
composter where it gets some sunshine is beneficial; if it's in full sun
this may dry out the compost too much.
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Wormeries
(This is brief ; for our detailed reference
page see the bottom of this page)
Making compost using a wormery is fun, especially if you like worms!
There are many wormeries on the market, you can find information on several
of these on our Composting page.
The same basic rules of composting apply to wormeries, including what
to use and what not to use, as above. If you buy a wormery, it will almost
certainly be supplied with instructions.
In our experience, it takes a while to get a wormery started - well the
worms have to become acclimatised to their new surroundings! Also the
quantity of compost produced is not great, but the quality is. We have
a tray at the bottom of our wormery which catches the surplus liquid;
this makes an excellent liquid fertiliser. |
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Making Compost in a Plastic Sack
We haven't much experience of this method, but we have found it useful when collecting large quantities of leaves because the woody stalks are slow to decompose. Putting them into
bin bags for a few weeks, or even months, starts the process, then they are mixed with the main compost.
However, you can make compost in a large plastic bin liners with the normal garden and kitchen waste. It is likely to take
a long time, about six to twelve months, for the organic matter to decompose
into reasonable compost. This is because you are making compost without
oxygen and this slows the process down; it's called anaerobic composting.
All you do is fill up your plastic sack with organic waste, see What's
Good and Bad to Compost above; try to ensure there's a mix of textures,
add some crumpled/torn paper if necessary. We've read that to improve
the compost, to each bag mix in about 15ml (1 tbspn) garden fertiliser
and 225ml lime. Close up the top of the bag and leave it. When you open
up the bag, you'll probably find what's in the bag is a bit (or a lot)
smelly and could be soggy, especially if the mixture was quite wet; however,
it'll still be good for the garden in the long run! |
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To see the detailed reference page on Wormeries, click this button . |
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© Copyright 2001-2007, Envocare Ltd.
ENVOCARE is a registered trade mark of Envocare Ltd.
For legal matters see the section "About Us & Contact Us".
Originated: 30 September, 2001, Last amended:
27 May, 2007
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